Chedventures

So I’ve just returned to the UK after over 6 months (195 days!) solo travelling around Asia, visiting Sri Lanka, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Taiwan, Japan, Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore. It was both the best and most demanding time of my life, and while trying to avoid sounding totally pretentious I learnt and grew a whole lot. Learning about other cultures and values was an amazing experience, alongside growing in confidence due to being forced to make plans, navigate brand new places and find my footing in foreign environments. While I enjoyed everywhere I visited, there were a few countries that really left a lasting memory on me. Here they are in summary to immortalise the joys of Asian gems.

Vietnam

Vietnam is possibly my favourite country I’ve ever visited. There’s endless things to do and see, stunning nature, the friendliest and most fun people all surrounded by beautiful landscapes and bustling cities. This country is extremely diverse in terms of topography and landscape while also boasting the most hectic, fast-paced and exciting cities both in the north in Hanoi and the south in Ho Chi Minh City. I loved Vietnam so much I stayed here a month and a half – as long as I was legally allowed to be there.

Vietnamese cuisine was always a favourite of mine before I visited, so my expectations were high. I was far from disappointed – the food I ate in Vietnam was some of the most delicious and affordable I’ve ever eaten in my life. I think I had Phở Bò (beef pho) every single day for the whole 45 days I was in Vietnam, and for never more than around £1.50. The best pho can always be found on a street stall or restaurant with tiny plastic chairs and a few locals huddled round tables. Other than the obvious pho, spring rolls and banh mi, Vietnam has a huge range of dishes to try like cau lao (thicker noodles originating from central Vietnam), ban xeo (crispy pancake with fillings) and bun cha (grilled pork and noodles). I didn’t have one local dish that I didn’t find absolutely delicious.

The food culture here is also very beautiful – alongside many other Asian countries and unlike Western style of eating, food and eating a good meal is extremely important and valuable, and food is eaten and made with love. Food is shared and enjoyed together often, as a social and community-marking occasion. To refuse an offer of food in Vietnam is seen as unusual and rude, as eating brings people closer and food is made with great respect (and it’s also too delicious to turn down). This juxtaposes with Western eating styles; while we do emphasise the importance of a good meal, it feels more sporadic and as a means to an end rather than a joyous occasion. In the UK it would be common to occasionally go out for a meal with friends, but often we cook and eat alone and feel less joy and pride in what we eat. Things are done for convenience rather than the experience of eating. I for one sometimes forget to eat, or skip a meal because I don’t have the effort to prepare anything. I really realised how unthinkable this would be for Vietnamese people, who take pride in cooking and eating, and will always go out of their way to make sure everyone is included and full during meal time. We were offered sit down meals and to try local food multiple times by locals who refused to accept any money and simply wanted us to appreciate Vietnamese cuisine. They also place high importance on eating while drinking – something the UK can learn from for sure – and whenever tables would have tens of beers, there would also be plenty of sharing plates.

The most memorable things of Vietnam have to be the views, the coffee, the chaos of the cities and roads, and the kindness of locals. I’m not even a huge fan of coffee and am much more a tea person, but Vietnamese coffee is out of this world. I think about it all the time, and I fear coffee will never taste as good since. The classic is a drip coffee with condensed milk, and it really is what dreams are made of. The main cities Hanoi and Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) are the most chaotic, fast-paced, full-on places I’d ever been to, but have such a fun and exciting feel. Crossing the road, particularly in Hanoi, is absolutely terrifying the first time, but a skill easily perfected by simply walking into the road without waiting for a gap otherwise you’d be waiting the entire day. The hectic feel really gave Vietnam character and a distinct charm that I’ve yet to find anywhere else. For such a chaotic place, life still feels relaxed.  Vietnam also boats some of the most beautiful views and scenery I’ve ever seen with my own eyes. Multiple times I was speechless and the beauty of the mountains and landscape, as well as waterscape views like in Ha Long Bay, Hoi An and Da Nang.

Downsides? There are really few things I disliked about Vietnam upon reflection. Prices were affordable, there’s an abundance of things to do, the food was delicious, the people super friendly and getting around was easy. The only possible thing that could have made my experience even better was if I could ride a scooter – obviously my own issue and nothing to do with anything else – as most people get around each place via scooter. In places which are a little more spread out, a scooter or taxi is the only option, and Grab taxis can get expensive. However, this is really a minor downside and is entirely due to my own failure to be able to operate a vehicle without having a breakdown.

All in all, Vietnam has something for everyone.
If you want action, try the Ha Giang Loop (a 4 day scooter loop in the northern mountains), canyoning in Da Lat, kayaking around Cat Ba, and hiking in Sapa.
If it’s relaxing you’re after, lie on the beach in Da Nang, stroll around the cosy ancient town of Hoi An and enjoy the views of UNESCO World Heritage site Ha Long Bay.
For history and culture, discover the hidden truths of the Vietnam war in the war remnants museum and Cu Chi tunnels in Ho Chi Minh City, discover women’s roles and experiences in Hanoi’s women’s museum, and visit the Imperial City and ancient tombs in Hue.
Delicious food and coffee is available on every street, and the nightlife is some of the best for tourists in Asia in my opinion. The crazy, overstimulating and unexplainable Bui Vien walking street in Saigon and the chaos of beer street in Hanoi are extremely popular for a reason, in addition to plenty of cool bars, live music and karaoke spots in the less busy areas.

Essentially, Vietnam has my heart and whenever I think or talk about it I’m filled with a warm nostalgia. I’d recommend visiting to anyone and everyone.

Japan

It’s hard to know where to begin with Japan. It has a uniquely independent feel and is unlike anywhere else in Asia, let alone the world. Japan feels very confident, smug almost at times, but with absolute justification. Everything is done just right, and it’s known for valuing convenience and respect highly which is apparent everywhere. From umbrella shakers upon entering a shop to the toilets with customisable heat settings and sound privacy options, it seems every small thing is considered and measures implemented to ensure total comfort. The fashion is absolutely insane as well, with everyone seeming to have the most beautifully fitted, classy and ahead of trends outfits.  People are more reserved in Japan, but the kindest and most humble people I’ve met. Compared with many countries in South East Asia, locals are far less likely to talk and joke with you and generally never take much notice of tourists. And why should they? It seems everyone has a mutual respect for each other and the unspoken social rules in Japan which was very impressive and refreshing. People party hard too, and certain places like Shinjuku and parts of Osaka just felt exhilarating.

Everything seems so quiet in Japan too, with all the cars being somehow silent (as a non-driver I’m presuming that’s because they’re electric) and no-one speaking loudly in public, if at all. It was an interesting juxtaposition walking down a silent, peaceful road and turning the corner to a bright, buzzing road filled with blinding lights and hundreds of people.

Additionally, the food in Japan is insane. Ramen (and any kind of noodle soup) is one of my favourite dishes of all time, and it did not disappoint. We tried some delicious dishes, like Takoyaki, Wagyu beef (one of the best things I’ve ever eaten in my life), Okonomiyaki, Yakitori and of course sushi. While there’s no spice or heat in Japan, the flavours are absolutely incomparable. We also tried barbecued tongue (which I wasn’t the biggest fan of) and plenty of sake shots. Even the convenience stores of 7/11 and Lawson had really delicious food and snacks for affordable prices; again, further proving the notion that Japan priorities convenience and are always a few steps ahead of the rest of the world.

There’s really no way to explain Japan until you visit.

Cambodia

I didn’t have high expectations for Cambodia, mainly as I’d just been in the incredible Vietnam and didn’t think anywhere would compare, but I was very pleasantly surprised. Cambodia is absolutely beautiful, and its southern islands are breath-taking. Koh Rong and Koh Rong Sanloem islands have much to boast – bright white beaches, stunning clear blue seas, cute restaurants and a fun but more reserved nightlife than their Thai counterparts. Here is what I imagine Koh Phi Phi and Koh Samui et al. would have been like ten to thirty years ago; so get there while it’s still paradise.

Cambodia has that classic slightly chaotic charm of South East Asia. There’ll be things going on that wouldn’t fly at home, like a family of 5 packed onto a motorbike, and there’s a certain informal, casual feel that is really exciting as a young(ish) traveller. I was told by a few people to be careful in Cambodia as it wasn’t safe, but I never had any trouble or felt unsafe at all. In fact, I found Khmer people to be friendly, hospitable and respectful.

The history of Cambodia is pretty harrowing, however. I was only partially aware of the genocide that happened in the 70s, but visiting Phnom Penh and seeing the prison and killing field was an experience I will think about everyday for the rest of my life. Considering the Khmer Rouge had a seat at the UN for years, it makes you think about how many atrocities and inhumane acts are being conducted today while the world not only watches but condones it. Cambodia has a dark, deeply sad history, but its young generation are thriving and it’s optimistic that good things are coming for the Khmer both socially and economically.

One of the main reasons people visit Cambodia is for Angkor Wat in Siem Reap. We had the great fortune of visiting during the hottest time of the year, with temperatures reaching over 40°C. While most people went at sunrise, we were too lazy for this and decided to go at 8am. This was still unbearably, disgustingly hot, and BBC weather said it was 38° but felt like 48°. In addition to this, as it’s a temple complex, covering up and showing respect is mandatory, so the extra layers really added to the experience. Having said this and without wanting to come across as though I’m moaning, it was truly one of the most breathtaking experiences. There’s no way to describe the size of Angkor Wat, and the intricacies of the stone and design. It’s really not like anywhere else I’ve been (and I went to a fair few temples in Asia). There’s a sort of peace and tranquillity in the air as soon as you set foot in the temple, which I was not expecting. It felt still and like you were at one with the earth, temple and surroundings. I felt quite emotional and moved but couldn’t quite figure out why. This was definitely one of those experiences that I’ll remember forever, and get to flex that I’ve seen the biggest, most famous and most impressive religious structures in the world.

This is essentially a love letter to Cambodia, as its beauty and culture really took me by surprise in the best way. It’s one of those places that the more time goes on, the more I miss it and want to return.

Plus there’s loads of cute beach dogs.

Laos

Laos is somewhere that really has my heart. We happened to be there in rainy season – and it was indeed extremely rainy – so there were less tourists and a few less things going on due to the weather and low season. Having said that, we still found plenty to do. I was only able to explore the north of Laos, but it is absolutely beautiful. It’s one of those countries which has that chaotic, frenetic and quintessentially South-East Asian feel. It’s very affordable and easy to get around.

Some of the best activities I did here was paramotoring (50$USD for a ride in the sky over northern Laos’ mountains and rivers), hikes to beautiful viewpoints and jumping into the most impressive waterfalls and lagoons. Everywhere you look in Laos is beautiful, with clouds breezing over stunning mountains and rivers scattered with charming towns.

Laos seems to have a reputation for being a little more dangerous and difficult among travellers, but I didn’t find this at all. While keeping aware and safe anywhere in the world is paramount, I didn’t feel the need to take unnecessary extra precautions. There were plenty of tourists and thus tourist-friendly options here while it still retaining an authentic local feel. The people here are kind and honest, but seem more reserved towards visitors than other parts of southeast Asia, which makes sense as it being less used to huge swathes of yearly tourists like its neighbours Thailand and even Vietnam.

The nightlife in Laos is also pretty interesting. For example, in Luang Prabang the main late-night option for drinking and socialising is a bowling alley, set up to contain the drunken tourists in one place away from the main town. Despite this, it’s still a very fun night out. Contrastingly, in Vang Vieng (known as the party town of Laos) there’s plenty of bars open fairly late, most notably Jaidee’s which has a drugs menu alongside a drinks one. Word on the street is that the owner has certain ties to the police force, allowing them to profit off drugs in this notorious establishment. Drugs are still very illegal in Laos, and I noticed plenty of signs around warning of the dangers and repercussions of recreational drugs, making this place feel very audacious and thrilling. While there’s less parties and late-night dance events than perhaps the rest of South East Asia, Laos still knows how to have a good time.

All in all, my trip to Asia was something pretty special. I learnt to loosen up a bit, throw myself into things and learnt how different countries and cultures do things. I tried the most delicious food, spoke to the loveliest locals and fellow travellers, and grew up a hell of a lot. I know I’m very lucky to be able to up and leave for over half a year; but if you’re afforded that privilege, make the most of it, because I’m so glad I did.